Fuel pump not running and other issues…

[cmdrew]

Hi all,
Finally got around to putting my turbo back together after a few years and have hit a few issues. Turn the ignition on and everything lights up and all electrics seem to work but no power to the fuel pump. Was all working when I took it apart! The warning lights, including the DFI light up and then go out apart from oil pressure and battery. Engine will spin over as well. Checked the ecu and assuming the ‘warning’ light is next to the wiring, nothing is lit up there - should it come on and ether go out? Checked all fuses and all ok. Checked all of the wiring plugs and all seem ok - HOWEVER I do have a green with blue tracer on the right hand side by the battery which isn’t plugged in to anything. I can’t see it on the wiring diagram but did wonder if it’s for the battery sensor which I don’t have. Any suggestions on what to check for next would be welcome…

[JezZedexE1]

Your best bet is to download the wiring diagrams from here. One is for the UK models, one for US & one for both. You will probably only need two of the three, unless you have both models.

viewtopic.php?t=13328

They are .PDF format and all the different colours (on individual "layers") can be hidden or showing. Turn off what you do not want to see and then you can trace back to a potential issue. Here is what part of the battery & starter motor wiring looks like.

battery.jpg (105.21 KiB) Viewed 2311 times

The same can be done to see the fuel pump routing.
There is a small round sight glass on the ECU which is where you will see a warning light (aka fault code) if that is what you are referring to.

[rangeroy]

Any joy on this? pump maybe seized if its been stood for a time or what about the pump relay?

[750turboguy]

run a couple wires from the battery to the fuel pump just for a sec to make sure its not froze up.

[Swiftandswank]

Just to clarify, have you verified with a meter that the is no power during the first 3 to 5 seconds after turning the key to in during the pumps priming stage?

[cmdrew]

Quick update - all sorted and it was my own fault. The 2 plugs which go to the main relay will fit either socket and of course I had them the wrong way around. Sorted this and the pump works fine and the bike starts albeit runs poorly. Seems to be air leaks around the rubber boots which go on to the head. Removed the intake again and ordered new boots but I have noticed sealant on the old ones - not sure if I should redo this or leave dry. I suspect the poor running was possibly incorrect injector wiring but I only noticed after I had disconnected it so can’t be certain. Getting closer though…

[750turboguy]

In my personal experience with those fucking things...what a poor design. They just butt up against the head and secure with two bolts. Not a very good seal. If you over tighten the bolts, you warp the boots and they don't sit flat and seal. So....... I put red, high temp Permatex on mine to seal them. Make sure to run your finger around the inside to smooth it and remove any excess. Too much build up could interfere with airflow.

Also, dont overtighten those bolts. Put a little of the permatex on the threads and juuuuust snug them up.

[cmdrew]

Thanks - I have 3 new boots coming but will get some sealant as well.

Next problem - over the 3 years the bike has been apart I seem to have lost 1 of the injector seals out of the manifold! This is obviously resulting in very poor running and popping back through that injector. The seals seem to be NLA - has anyone found an alternative? I have read a few posts that Evergreen may have replacements but I am in the UK so not so easy.

[riturbo]

Theres a few for sale on u.s. ebay maybe check your area . Put the part number in to search 92055-1082

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ka ... sacat=6028

[JezZedexE1]

Dimension are about:
O/D = 14mm
I/D = 9.2mm
Height = 4.5mm
Wall = 2.5mm

If new ones cannot be sourced for a reasonable cost, I have a spare. Try Z-Power

TENNER.jpg (137.67 KiB) Viewed 2183 times

[riturbo]

Dimension are about:
O/D = 14mm
I/D = 9.2mm
Height = 4.5mm
Wall = 2.5mm

If new ones cannot be sourced for a reasonable cost, I have a spare. Try Z-Power
TENNER.jpg

Yes they were kind of pricy even the shipping was crazy. The one for 6,99 wasnt too bad

[cmdrew]

Convinced this bike just doesn't want to run! managed to make some injector seals and bought new intake rubbers and the bike started and ran perfectly - great! However, I then noticed an odd grinding noise coming from the sprocket cover when I turned the rear wheel so investigated to find that I had fabricated a new 'stud' to hold the air filter case on as mine didn't have one and it had screwed into the sprocket cover and was hitting the chain so an easy fix. All back together - bike won't start again and no fuel pump???

Checked the ECU and no lights on at all - I was previously seeing the blinking green light for race mode. Snipped the zip ties holding the ecu to its brackets as the rubbers have long gone and the fuel pump started! Seems there is a bad connection at the ECU so as I move the wiring it powers up and works correctly but of course not reliably. As the ECU is not powering up at all i assume it is either the main earth or main live wire which is broke / not making a connection. I don't think it is at the relay end as that should not be affected by me just moving the ecu. Oh well - another task!

I still have to find a front brake lever - I have ordered 2 off e-bay and 1 from Kawasaki themselves and none fit my master cylinder. Mine is a US import so that may be the issue or of course the master cylinder may have been changed over the years. When I put the pivot pin in the lever the end which pushes the piston is actually pushing the piston all the way in.

[JezZedexE1]

Check this post about handlebars, etc.

viewtopic.php?t=18025

[rangeroy]

Adrian does ecu rubbers, relays are easy to open up and check the contacts are not stuck together and you can still find New replacement ones, I think you will have to check the wiring harness it could be a easy fix or a nightmare.

[JezZedexE1]

This might help ID something.
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DFI.JPG (56.32 KiB) Viewed 1934 times

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