Oil Check Valve

[Sandman]

Has anyone ever considered putting in a 1 way check valve inline with the turbo oil drain line in order to avoid the backflow into the turbo over time? Obviously it takes a little pressure to open the valve in the direction and that could bring up some problems. I've seen a few on McMaster that have a .3 PSI opening pressure that are rated for oil. Would this create too much back pressure in the turbo causing the oil to leak out of the seals while it is running? I've seen some articles on other pages about people using check valves on cars that have bottom or lower mount turbos.

Side note cause too lazy to open another thread: are the brake line fittings that have the hard line for the Anti-Dive M10x1.0 or some other size?

[750turboguy]

I posted this VERY SAME question a while back....... The answer was, I believe is it might deter or decrease flow volume......

[Sandman]

The valve in question has a Cv of 1.1 & a minimum opening pressure of .3 psi. Assuming it hangs around that .3 psi on the other side of the valve, doing the math shows that the valve is capable of flowing .62 gallons per minute.

[TurboStew]

Has anyone ever considered putting in a 1 way check valve inline with the turbo oil drain line in order to avoid the backflow into the turbo over time? Obviously it takes a little pressure to open the valve in the direction and that could bring up some problems. I've seen a few on McMaster that have a .3 PSI opening pressure that are rated for oil. Would this create too much back pressure in the turbo causing the oil to leak out of the seals while it is running? I've seen some articles on other pages about people using check valves on cars that have bottom or lower mount turbos.

What about some sort of high flow solenoid valve. This could operate through the ignition ?

[Lorcan]

What about some sort of high flow solenoid valve. This could operate through the ignition ?

Sounds like a good idea to me, and doesn't need to be that high flow. Would need to be low current though, to avoid draining the battery.

[Arktasian]

I use a similar "low cracking psi" type check valve, which is also oil compatible and 3/8fpt each end (I suspect was a Parker product).
That is however on a different platform (BMW airhead engine), but with turbo having a similar low mount and a scavenge pump for the drain back to sump. Simpler is better, I've tested other electric solenoids and even pilot operated mini check valves but invariably its something that can fail.
In Edit - a "non electric" check valve device is 100% effective in reducing the drain back effect and oil smoke on restarts etc (if the drain plumbing has some head to it).
If you are adding something like this however, it is re-assuring to test it - disconnecting to allow turbo to drain freely into vessel to witness feed rate (hence confirming orifice choice if used), while having the check valve submerged in oil to allow the drain rate to be compared (at all rpm's). Works nicely for me.

[Betterthanfabio]

I'd be scared of anything electrical operating a vavle to control oil flow. One dead solenoid cheap to fix, One dead turbo though... $$$$
A check valve yeah OK but I think I'll just stick to the raised front wheel & slightly lower oil level in the interest of reliability & slight paranoia!

[VinoBassi]

Good pointer,BTF...Sometimes simple methods are the best.

[TurboStew]

I'd be scared of anything electrical operating a vavle to control oil flow. One dead solenoid cheap to fix, One dead turbo though... $$$$
A check valve yeah OK but I think I'll just stick to the raised front wheel & slightly lower oil level in the interest of reliability & slight paranoia!

Yeah, this is also my method of dealing with the issue, level down, wheel up.

[longfiredragon]

I have been watching this, call me old school but when I upgraded to the ZR7 oil pump I also upgraded to higher press. check valve and am happy with this setup.