At last!

[Charlie @ Evergreen]

Got some extra injectors if needed to keep things moving along

[Olcockie]

Thanks Mate.

[Visco]

Mate Love the Nullarbor photo!!! great to see it was used to it's full potential back in the day with swag strapped to the back lol

I want to do a bike trip to Phillip Island one day if i can get the balls to take the turbo on a long trip


Good luck with the restoration, if you are in need of a zr7 oil pump and pressure relief valve i have one of each in stock that i bought new this yr not realising mine was already upgraded.

Regards Grant

[Olcockie]

Thanks Grant,

Was an awesome trip. 5 hrs for the 200k's of dirt and bulldust from Hyden to Norseman Rd and another 5 hrs from Norseman to Eucla and the border! Had a hammock wrapped in the swag and hung it between gearsack rack and a tree or post. Three days over, a day on the island having a ball, a morning in Melb for new tyres and three days home. Young and silly for sure.

Can still recommend it though.

Certainly need to get the oil pump and prv thanks. PM sent.

rgds Rod

[Olcockie]

A number of you have suggested I should clean up the inside welds of the exhaust manifold / turbo flange connection to improve airflow, roughly where red line is.

I believe though, there is a risk of gouging to deep and creating holes if I just go in with a burr / diegrinder. After taking to it with bead blaster to get the gravel dust and mud off, I am left with following.

Manifold 6.jpg (131.98 KiB) Viewed 4996 times

.
Question is, do I need any special welding rods to apply a bead around each downpipe, where red lines are drawn or is it mild steel? (Hope my hand is steadier on the welding rod than it is on a computer!)

Alternatively, is there a smarter way to do this?

OC

[Charlie @ Evergreen]

Done them two ways. Did my original header by cutting the behive in half. Welded the outter tubes then ported the inside to my glory.
On shipped in headers use along 3 inch carbide just knock the excess off the inside of tubes. You do not need to go past the slag that lays inside the primaries. Then you will not hurt the structure and strength of the header. Same with the primaries up top use sand flap wheels smooth them out with only small amount removed keep them intact and strong. Not gone thru any welds causing a issue on about 20 headers.

Hope that helps.

[Charlie @ Evergreen]

Here is a few pics of the welds

Also cutting open to port then re weld together.

Notice on the last two pics from inside the flange you can see the lip on the exit hole. That is the turbine housing flange that is smaller then the header outlet. This is the material we port match on rebuilds to match the header outlet size in the next picture.

[Olcockie]

Thanks Charlie,

I like the idea of getting in without cutting beehive. I am nervous about getting alignment correct to reweld.
So if I understand correctly, I am not worried about excess weld bead in the chamber of beehive, but only where it protrudes into airflow further up in header pipes? Hopefully shown in pic below.

Then on your last two pics, the lip in 3 that is smoothed off in 4 is actually the inlet on turbo housing which you show bolted up to beehive flange and already machined out on the work of art you sent me a few weeks back? (Safely packed in shed at home where I can't drag it out to look right now, but I'm an impatient bugger!)

Sorry for being pedantic, I just can't help it!

[Charlie @ Evergreen]

Easy enough feel inside the primary tubes you will feel the weld hanging inside the primaries. Only remove the slag run inside the primaries. Nothing on the outside. That way the primaries are open thru smooth.

[Olcockie]

Perfect! Thanks Charlie

[Turbo Pete]

Before I cut my beehive open I cut a small groove with the grinder on the outside so when it came time to weld it back together I had a reference point to line up.

[Olcockie]

Thanks Pete,

Simple but effective . I like it.