810cc Ht12 290cc injectors, 36psi PC111 map

[ducati]

As the title says, but bear in mind this is for a bike running in an average 30deg, 70% humidity, situation. I have the resistor network in place, and the PC is mapped out to 32psi.
Map started as a T27 304cc injector map posted here earlier.
My throttle numbers are around ...low 5000, high 15900, the low number moves a little, depending on the heat of the motor, it can be up to 50 difference, which I'm thinkin is what gives me the random idle movement, as the map will switch to 2% column occasionally, at idle when hot. Moving the tps DOES change the low numbers a bit too, I should set the numbers the same in the 2% column, as it will never be in boost, up to around 4k, [well my bike, anyway], and this should sort the number/heat/column change, and hopefully fix the continuous idling problems I seem to have.
This map provides smooth cruise, and excellent acceleration, but there is still some sorting to do at the very top end, which seems to loose a little push after 9k.

I went to my local dyno tuner, and he does not want anything to do with tuning, or even running my old bike on his precious fucking dyno.
Seemed to think a HUB, and sliding boost scale style PC setup would be better..................except the TPS runs backwards

'10 bottoms, 5k.djm

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[ducati]

OH

Don't blame me if your bike doesn't like it!!
This is the best map I've had by far. My bike was setup to be strong in the upper mid range,[small, fast spoolup ht12] rarely going above 9k.

[tack1000]

it can be up to 50 difference, which I'm thinkin is what gives me the random idle movement, as the map will switch to 2% column occasionally

Hello glad to hear your getting there with the map, it is a slow process and takes time to get it right. Unfortunately as the tests are performed on different days the weather plays a part in the settings so they would always need to be tweaked to be spot on. Hoping for a average setting that deals with most conditions is the best you can expect without remapped every five minutes.

One point about the columns and lines, as the boost increases and the rpm increases ( or decreases) the map/PC uses the two number closes to the point your are at and proportionally adjusts the setting. It does not switch instantly from one to another. That being in you have a 10 in one cell (2500 rpm say) and a 20 in the next (3000 rpm say) and you were half way between the two (in real time) it would take a reading of 15. This is just my observation while I have been looking at the laptop whist running or dynoing the engine.

Hope that helps.

[Lorcan]

I guess we should have a static page on the main part of the site with maps to download. You still need a map for each bike though.

[ducati]

Yes Lorc,
It would be easier to have all the maps on one page, but then you would miss all the information gained by searching for them!

Tack wrote:
"One point about the columns and lines, as the boost increases and the rpm increases ( or decreases) the map/PC uses the two number closes to the point your are at and proportionally adjusts the setting. It does not switch instantly from one to another. That being in you have a 10 in one cell (2500 rpm say) and a 20 in the next (3000 rpm say) and you were half way between the two (in real time) it would take a reading of 15. This is just my observation while I have been looking at the laptop whist running or dynoing the engine."


Yes Tack, I have the "highlight active cell/s " [or whatever they call it..] turned on, and when connected via laptop to the PC, engine running, can clearly see the yellow shading of two cells alternating across the active area.It's what prompted me to think of using the same numbers across the "unboosted" 1-5%, lower section of the map, so that when the tps/boost sensor resistance changes due to heat [or I move the idle adjuster, same result!!], the PC does not change fueling.

I've tried to keep the steps between cells gradual, rather than a huge change, but there are some areas still massively different, my aim is to concentrate on a specific rev /boost point and try to improve that, then make another change only after a few rides.

Still have the pot replacing the engine temp sender, so I can move the fuel rich/lean on the fly, to confirm I'm going in the right direction.
Incredibly slow and frustrating, and I have to adjust the pot to full rich to get the bike started [or it goes nowhere..], and slowly swing it lean as the motor warms up.............. but I'm gradually leaning the map out overall, so hopefully it won't grenade itself before it's "right"!!
My aim is to get as much torque early as possible, rather than shooting for big revs, big horsepower.

[Würstchens-Turbo 810]

As the title says, but bear in mind this is for a bike running in an average 30deg, 70% humidity, situation. I have the resistor network in place, and the PC is mapped out to 32psi.
Map started as a T27 304cc injector map posted here earlier.
My throttle numbers are around ...low 5000, high 15900, the low number moves a little, depending on the heat of the motor, it can be up to 50 difference, which I'm thinkin is what gives me the random idle movement, as the map will switch to 2% column occasionally, at idle when hot. Moving the tps DOES change the low numbers a bit too, I should set the numbers the same in the 2% column, as it will never be in boost, up to around 4k, [well my bike, anyway], and this should sort the number/heat/column change, and hopefully fix the continuous idling problems I seem to have.
This map provides smooth cruise, and excellent acceleration, but there is still some sorting to do at the very top end, which seems to loose a little push after 9k.

I went to my local dyno tuner, and he does not want anything to do with tuning, or even running my old bike on his precious fucking dyno.
Seemed to think a HUB, and sliding boost scale style PC setup would be better..................except the TPS runs backwards

'10 bottoms, 5k.djm

Hi Duc , please can you post the dyno Run (with AFR) for this map , please ?
cheers Horst

[ducati]

Horst, you must not have read my earlier posts. This map started as another [Dynoed] 810 T25, [NOT T27. whatever that is!] 304cc injector map posted here.
There is no dyno map, as I have not managed to find a suitable operator in my [remote] area.
The map is a series of small adjustments over a period of three months, tested on the road, then adjusted to attempt improvement.
As stated, the top end is still a bit dodgy, and it wouldn't suprise me if the midrange does not suit a HT10, because my ht12 [bigger compressor, same size turbine] spins up HEAPS faster and further than a stocker.
My injectors are 4 hole high impedance jobbies [ bosch redtops anyway]350cc@43.5lbs, set at 36psi, which may mean a different response time to other injectors.
As Lorcan said, each bike needs its own map,but this one certainly is the best I've had so far.........................for my engine

[ducati]

Well.............. I found a dyno operator who was willing to "have a go", and the result is a far faster bike, [20hp extra, so far] and a map that does NOT look anything like what I had set!! First run yielded a whopping 88hp and an AFR sitting solidly in the 9.0's, above 5k [below the machine's ability to measure!]
For some reason my engine likes it very rich at idle, then needs to lean off quickly until boost cuts in, then it needs to richen up again, then lean out in the boosted top end. The numbers are still rich up top beyond the 40% line, as we could not get there with the slipping clutch, and its far better to be rich than lean up there, when you aren't sure.
The result is an AFR curve that looks like a mountain range, yet the power curve runs almost straight up.
We were really starting to get somewhere, then the clutch let go after making 109hp/7k revs @13.4lbs boost , so new fibres seem inevitable. By the operator's own admission, the numbers read very low, he showed me a 'busa run that logged around 140 horsies, with a power curve that was not as steep as the turbos, but went a hell of a lot further up the chart [If I had a gripping clutch I think we might have bettered that]
The alternator rotor bolt came loose on the last run, and sounded for all the world like I had just lunched the motor, clanking and banging away under the cover, fortunately it was an easy fix, and I rode home, instead of breaking out the trailer, and rebuilding the engine. Dropped the oil to make sure, and although there was no metal, there were parts of the clutch dampers, like tiny little rocks.........great..........
I apologise to those who have tried the map I put up, it is stupid rich [ironically not rich enough at idle for MY engine!]
I will put up the dyno chart, and map, when I get the clutch to hold, and can get a full run mapped out on the dyno.
For those who may read this, and living in Darwin, [probably only me...]I'd like to put in a good word for Precision H*nda, who were fair minded, easy to deal with type of characters, and Chris the dyno man was a pleasure to work with.

[Lorcan]

Good dyno operators are sometimes hard to find, well done