Wanted lock up clutch

MrFluffy · Post by **MrFluffy** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:23 pm

looking at that pic again, it strikes me that if you had access to a vertical mill and a rotary table, you could bolt the cover down to the rotary, fit a slitting saw into a arbor in the spindle and make the cut by rotating it on the table as a alternative method. Saves having to make up a fixturing plate I guess and Im more comfortable with spinning the tool than the part for that op.

I have to do this for my streetfighter, since the one of the frame tube is so close to the casing it fouls the lockup spacer when I use the "normal" lockup I have. Ive probably said that before. More action less rhetoric is needed once more.

GPzephyr · Post by **GPzephyr** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:28 pm

tack1000 wrote:Hi Zeph

What are your doing about the puller rack.

Tack1000

Two possiblites

One is to try the suggestion mentioned earlier by FBM and try a GSX1100 rack.

Or. Convert the clutch to a push actuator like the earlier 650 and 750's. Maybe hydraulic.

tack1000 · Post by **tack1000** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:33 pm

Hi

Done that one. Thread on here somewhere showing how to do it. Have a search.

Only thing you have to strip the whole motor down to do it but if you still have oil probs then you can do it then I guess.

Tack1000

FastFerret · Post by **FastFerret** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:33 pm

GPzephyr wrote:
tack1000 wrote:Hi Zeph

What are your doing about the puller rack.

Tack1000
Two possiblites

One is to try the suggestion mentioned earlier by FBM and try a GSX1100 rack.

Or. Convert the clutch to a push actuator like the earlier 650 and 750's. Maybe hydraulic.

Another project that was planned but not executed.
I have the hydraulic Clutch master and slave in a box where I was planning on a hydraulic clutch conversion. Someone else did manage it though and it is/was documented here somewhere.

GPzephyr · Post by **GPzephyr** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:37 pm

http://www.750turbo.com/forum/viewtopic ... =hydraulic

tack1000 · Post by **tack1000** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:39 pm

Hi Fluff

One point not sure if you picked up on is the hump must have a spigit left to pick up on so the spacer and outer section with the rack puller is back in line or the clutch would stick real bad.

So you would still have to use the mandral plate to make it run true, weather it was in a rotary table or chuck on a lathe. I did set it up just like you said then stoped a few mm away when I thought of the lining up problem.........

Tack1000

It don't spin that fast anyway, you should know that when parting off. Slow and steady.

MrFluffy · Post by **MrFluffy** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:59 pm

tack1000 wrote:Hi Fluff

One point not sure if you picked up on is the hump must have a spigit left to pick up on so the spacer and outer section with the rack puller is back in line or the clutch would stick real bad.

So you would still have to use the mandral plate to make it run true, weather it was in a rotary table or chuck on a lathe. I did set it up just like you said then stoped a few mm away when I thought of the lining up problem.........

Tack1000

It don't spin that fast anyway, you should know that when parting off. Slow and steady.

On that diameter aye it'd be slower, its surface speed after all although my parting tool takes carbide inserts which demand faster speed than hss ones and the material is aluminium...

For the setup, id indicate the table in to the spindle same as usual, then it to the table/spindle with a wiggler or dti mounted on a trammel bar to get the radius to sweep the periphery, then you have the option to create the spigot either with two progressive cuts or a gang cutter arrangement with two sizes of cutter (preferable, because my slitting saws flex and follow the previous cut as theyre not very rigid but I can get multiple on the arbour). Or run a t slot cutter round first then slit it at the middle of the slot.
You'd still need to indicate in the mandrel plate to the table/spindle if you made a plate, but where the plate would score is if you were doing more than one. And success of both done in the mill would depend on how well you aligned everything of course

tack1000 · Post by **tack1000** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:35 am

Hi Fluff

I do have the DXF of the plate so if you have the means I could sent it over for you to mill the mounting holes and the center hole to clamp. If you dont have the means I could send a drawing with dims on it. I only used 4 bolts but both the dowels for location.

Tack1000