WARNING: Obviously messing with your bike's fuel injection system is at your own risk. If you get it wrong, don't blame me. If you get it right and it blows up or fries the ECU, injectors, or burns the whole bike to the ground, don't blame me. If your bike goes wrong because of what you have done to it it is YOUR FAULT.
YOU WILL NEED:
Basic wiring tools including a soldering iron. Any PC3 or PC3R from any 4 cylinder bike. A set of high impedance (12-16ohm) injectors. Some resistors and possibly a diode or two.
These instructions will work on ANY fuel injected bike, including the other factory turbos (not the Yam obviously which has carbs), GPz1100, Z1300 etc.
PC2s will not work because they alter the incoming signal from the sensors to the ECU and there is not enough range in the sensors to make compensations on the scale we need. PC3s and 3Rs alter the signal from the ECU. This is much better for us as the basic mapping in the Kawasaki is good, we just need more fuelling for higher boost running and the ability to remove fuel to compensate for larger injectors. ALL PC3s and PC3Rs INTERNALLY ARE THE SAME. However, to suit different model bikes they have different colour wires, connector blocks, and software. Some only allow you to alter the fuelling by 35%, some by 45% and some by 100%. It may be possible to alter a 35% PC3 to a 100% model by software but this mod is not available at this time. In any case a 100% increase is probably not possible because you would run out of duty cycle (the amount of time the injector is ON as a percentage). The model I have used is a PC3 for a 2000 ZX12R. You can find out how much you can vary your own PC by powering it up with a 9v battery (instructions on the Powercommander site http://www.powercommander.com and try typing 80 in the fuel columns. If it defaults to 35 or 45 then obviously that is the software limit for the PC you have.
All PCs are made for modern bikes. All modern bikes use saturated circuit injectors that have high impedance, 12-16ohms, as opposed to the stock injectors on the turbo which are low impedance, about 2.6ohms. I STRONGLY suggest you DO NOT try to connect a PC to the stock injectors. You won't hurt the ECU but there is a strong possibility of frying either the PC or the injectors themselves, neither of which are cheap. In any case, modern injectors such as the 310cc units from http://www.rceng.com have much better design and atomisation so you would be a fool to get this far and use some old crappy injectors. If you want to order from RC ask them to machine the top mounts for hose and you will then be able to use them with the stock fuel rail. They do this free of charge. The rest of the injector fits just like stock, including the electrical connector.
Here is the wiring diagram. All connections should be soldered.
The four yellow wires in the loom in the battery area can all be disconnected from the injectors and bunched together to provide the input signal (they are connected further down the loom anyway). You could, if you wanted to, take the grey wire to the TPS instead of the pink boost sensor wire but if you do this you would have to remap every time you turned the boost up or down.
The diagram as shown has 11 wires. Cut off the connector blocks and you will be left with either 11 or 12 wires (11 if you have a PC for a ZX12R, 12 for most Suzukis):
ORANGE, BLUE, YELLOW, GREEN always go together and are outputs on this ZX12R PC, but INPUTS on many other PCs. Obviously in that case the remaining 4 wires become the outputs.
GREY - this is the TPS/Boost sensor wire. Connect to the pink wire out of the boost sensor.
IF your PC has 12 wires one wire (probably Black/White) will be an additional sensor earth. The remaining 4 will either be inputs or outputs. It won't hurt if you connect them up the other way around, the injectors just won't work, just remember that Orange, Blue, Yellow and Green always stay together and are either all inputs or all outputs.
Install the PC as per the diagram and install the Powercommander software for your PC (available from http://www.powercommander.com if you do not have the CD) and then connect the PC cable to the PC and your computer serial port. Load the program and switch on the ignition. You will see the fuel map stored in the PC which will be all zeros if the PC is new or a load of numbers if the PC has come off another bike. You will also see current RPM (zero) and throttle position (actually plenum pressure in our case).
Go to Utilities > Set Throttle positions.
Locate the pipe from the plenum to the boost sensor. Unplug it at the plenum end and suck on it to create a slight vacuum....you should see the throttle position % reduce on the laptop screen. Set this throttle position as zero. Then connect a pressure supply ( a tire will do) with slightly over the maximum boost pressure you will be wanting to run (I used 25psi) and set this to 100% throttle. This will ensure that any alterations only affect the "on boost" area of the map. If alterations are required for idle or off boost performance you may need to connect a vacuum supply and reset the 0% throttle setting lower.<br>
You can now start the bike as normal. If it is miles too rich it might foul the plugs so if you have big injectors in make sure you remove any race mode resistors first and set a minus percentage, say -25%, in the 0% to 20% throttle columns. Once it's running you should see the boost position (throttle position) on the screen, RPM and the injector duty cycle.
Then it's off to the dyno to get mapped like any other bike! I'd encourage you to share maps for different setups on here, but remember that every bike is different so ideally needs it's own map, not someone else's. Of course it is still useful to make comparisons.
