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Hi , i use a PCIIIusb .
I work with two Boostsensors.
One ist the original and the second is a Sensor ONLY for PCIII...

My original boostsensor is (i think so) faulty, because my original digital boost Gauge isn´t working ( Ground and powersupply is ok , but i dont get Volts at pink wire) and i dont get fuel ,with boost .(and Code 21)

Question: If the second sensor is only for the PCIII (for boost), why does my engine leans when i ride with boost (the second sensor is ok) because the faulty originalsensor dont is for high boost .

i can ride up to 120 km/h and if i put throttle open than the engine leans out and i dont get power (boost and fuel-pressure are ok and goes up, because i have a manuel gauges also)

any Ideas ?

The power commander is only altering the signals it receives from the original ECU which is reliant on the stock boost sensor.
This would only become different if you removed the entire stock DFI system and replaced it with something else completely.

To explain further:
the stock ECU says to the injectors - open now for X duration, the PCIII sees this signal come in and then takes over and says open now for whatever my Map says. If the ECU sends a really short or overly long signal, the PCIII will still only do what the Map tells it AS long as the ECU signal is there.
The ECU has to send the right info in the first place for the PCIII to make the correct adjustment, if it sends rubbish then the PCIII will produce rubbish and the ECU relies on its own boost sensor to send the right info.

I stand to be corrected but I think this is what I gleaned from messing around with my own unit.

FastFerret wrote:The power commander is only altering the signals it receives from the original ECU which is reliant on the stock boost sensor.
This would only become different if you removed the entire stock DFI system and replaced it with something else completely.

To explain further:
the stock ECU says to the injectors - open now for X duration, the PCIII sees this signal come in and then takes over and says open now for whatever my Map says. If the ECU sends a really short or overly long signal, the PCIII will still only do what the Map tells it AS long as the ECU signal is there.
The ECU has to send the right info in the first place for the PCIII to make the correct adjustment, if it sends rubbish then the PCIII will produce rubbish and the ECU relies on its own boost sensor to send the right info.

I stand to be corrected but I think this is what I gleaned from messing around with my own unit.

I thought it was more along the lines of

ECU sends open time for X milliseconds to the PC, it then add or subtracts the % value you set in the map and passes that new duration onto the injector bank.
But you are right about the pressure, the ECU needs this to say how much first. Then adjusts to suit.

I did not think it took over completely and gave its own figure as the boost quantity would not make any difference if it did.

So the original Boost, Air temp, Throttle opening, revs and engine temp are all plumbed into the ECU from all of these it works out what to do with the injection pulse duration. The PC takes this figure and adds or subtracts by your new map an amount, the PC does however also uses for its own calculation the Revs and boost pressure to move to a different point on the map as you would only move up and down the RPM scale at Zero boost and not across the Boost if the boost was not connected. It needs two inputs to move in both X and Y. Even with a boost input to just the PC it would not be able to add enough fuel without the ECU's own amount as well.

Thanks for the correction Jeff.
I thought there had to be a bit more to it.

Could the ECU be operated off of the second map sensor? and eliminate the original? The second one that Würstchens-Turbo 810
purchased is 0-5v and is already capped off or is 5v not enough for the ECU?

Wurst

Why don't you stick with the set up that has been proven to work as you seam to have more issues than most.

kawasakiman542 wrote:Could the ECU be operated off of the second map sensor? and eliminate the original? The second one that Würstchens-Turbo 810
purchased is 0-5v and is already capped off or is 5v not enough for the ECU?

It may be that it would work, however without having a test session to prove all is OK I would not like to say one way or another.

As for Two Sensors........WHY. Twice the set up me thinks.

kawasakiman542 wrote:Could the ECU be operated off of the second map sensor? and eliminate the original? The second one that Würstchens-Turbo 810
purchased is 0-5v and is already capped off or is 5v not enough for the ECU?

Hello again, thinking about it I believe it would not quite work right as the ECU is mapped to see full volts from the Kawasaki Sensor. That's why you cap the STD Sensor and not change it or reduce the volts with resistors. It you change it the PC map would have to be a fair bit higher % numbers as the ECU would think it was running less boost than it really was and therefore pump less fuel in right across the rev and boost range. What a pain that would be, I know it could be done with a lot of testing but why would you without having a very good understanding of the issues and access to a dyno for more than an hour or two.

That's why I say stick to a set up that has been proven to work from 110 HP to 250 plus HP.

If you done run any more that 20 PSI of boost then the capping and dividing of the Volts from the Boost sensor is not needed anyway.

So ask yourself.

Am I running more than 20 PSI of boost as on the right engine/turbo set up that's about 200 hp.

As for Two Sensors........WHY. Twice the set up me thinks.

If I remember right, the stock map sensor regulates the ecu for the full scale 0-7v and the second is already capped and functions 0-5v for the PC full scale.
Each of us ( Horst and myself) were having problems with the resistor capped setup with the single map sensor, so I went this route, and it worked out for me. From what I remember Lorcan at one time was using two map sensors, although he would have to confirm that.

Kman542
PS.
Horst ,if it will simplify your problem, I may have a spare "original "boost sensor......just PM me.

kawasakiman542 wrote:

As for Two Sensors........WHY. Twice the set up me thinks.

If I remember right, the stock map sensor regulates the ecu for the full scale 0-7v and the second is already capped and functions 0-5v for the PC full scale.
Each of us ( Horst and myself) were having problems with the resistor capped setup with the single map sensor, so I went this route, and it worked out for me. From what I remember Lorcan at one time was using two map sensors, although he would have to confirm that.

Kman542
PS.
Horst ,if it will simplify your problem, I may have a spare boost sensor......just PM me.

Reading back through a lot of older posts on the subject I see the 5 V extra sensor had been tried and tested to work fine. I still think swopping to a 0-5 volt sensor only may need a lot more setting up.

Wurst, have you tested the Sensor on the bench to see it 12 volts in gives the right volts out or only on the bike itself?

First: Thanks for your lot answers -:)
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
If i understand right : its possible to use also the 0-5V Sensor instead of the original ?

K-man you have PM

THX
Horst