Installation instructions

[GPzephyr]

I'd use the 2w ones. Primarily because they are a bit larger physically and so are easier to work with and the legs are stronger.

[Würstchens-Turbo 810]

I have this info it is right ??

that its enough to take a 100kohm (5 V at 24psi) instead of 180kohm , for 24psi boost, because it give a better range.

I will only runing 22psi or 24 psi boost not more because my GT1548 makes no more .

Can/ or must i need a 100kohm ????

And when i need a 100kohm must i maped the 100% with 24psi ????????

[Würstchens-Turbo 810]

Must i write the mapping up 14500 (as yours) or it is enough up to 12000 rpm ?

14500 is to much .

[FastFerret]

Quote Lorcans instructions:
Locate the pipe from the plenum to the boost sensor. Unplug it at the plenum end and suck on it to create a slight vacuum....you should see the throttle position % reduce on the laptop screen. Set this throttle position as zero. Then connect a pressure supply ( a tire will do) with slightly over the maximum boost pressure you will be wanting to run (I used 25psi) and set this to 100% throttle. This will ensure that any alterations only affect the "on boost" area of the map. If alterations are required for idle or off boost performance you may need to connect a vacuum supply and reset the 0% throttle setting lower.

I realise that in my haste I failed to do this step completely so I will do it sometime tomorrow but do you think this is the obvious reason why my bike starts and idles smoothly but fails to rev over 7000rpm?

[Lorcan]

If you didn't set either throttle position, yes.

[GPzephyr]

Fitted my replacement PC3 this evening (many thanks to Kawasakiman542).

Thought I chime in and add some more details regarding wiring.

The new unit came with 2 extra wires Brown and Brown/White. I did a bit of investigation and found that these are not even connected to the main board within the PC3, so can be disregarded entirely.

Also the Black/White wire was not there, instead there was a White/Grey wire. A bit of multi meter work concluded that the two are the same, being the sensor ground (for the boost signal in our case). Make sure this is wired separately to ground rather than connected to the Black wire.

All other wires are the same as before, Grey to boost, Red and black for power, and the 4 bold colours to ECU, 4 striped colours to injectors.

[Würstchens-Turbo 810]

Fitted my replacement PC3 this evening (many thanks to Kawasakiman542).

Thought I chime in and add some more details regarding wiring.

The new unit came with 2 extra wires Brown and Brown/White. I did a bit of investigation and found that these are not even connected to the main board within the PC3, so can be disregarded entirely.

Also the Black/White wire was not there, instead there was a White/Grey wire. A bit of multi meter work concluded that the two are the same, being the sensor ground (for the boost signal in our case). Make sure this is wired separately to ground rather than connected to the Black wire.

All other wires are the same as before, Grey to boost, Red and black for power, and the 4 bold colours to ECU, 4 striped colours to injectors.

From/For which Bike is your PC3(usb?)

[GPzephyr]

Sorry Horst. I have no idea, but it doesnt matter really, seems all 4 cylinder PC3's work regardless of which bike they come off

[kawasakiman542]

Fitted my replacement PC3 this evening (many thanks to Kawasakiman542).

Thought I chime in and add some more details regarding wiring.

The new unit came with 2 extra wires Brown and Brown/White. I did a bit of investigation and found that these are not even connected to the main board within the PC3, so can be disregarded entirely.

Also the Black/White wire was not there, instead there was a White/Grey wire. A bit of multi meter work concluded that the two are the same, being the sensor ground (for the boost signal in our case). Make sure this is wired separately to ground rather than connected to the Black wire.

All other wires are the same as before, Grey to boost, Red and black for power, and the 4 bold colours to ECU, 4 striped colours to injectors.

From/For which Bike is your PC3(usb?)

Horst, It was from 2005 zx636

[Würstchens-Turbo 810]

Last night i had one dream /Question :

if i tell my PCIII that 100% = 28 psi AND i run only 22psi......

how knows the PC how much air i need for , i say 20 psi or 20psi and at last 28 psi

As far as I've understood

but : because the PCIII dont know which turbocharger i need , a smaller turbo charges less air than a bigger turbo ..how he differentiated the benefits?

[Lorcan]

That's why it needs mapping, ideally on a dyno.

[Würstchens-Turbo 810]

thats i understand

but i dont must make a new mapping when i change boost and THATS i dont understand if i go on a dyno to map ..say 30psi than its ok for 30psi .

when i change boost to say 22 psi how knows the PC that i changed to 22psi without a mapping for 22psi ?

[tack1000]

thats i understand

but i dont must make a new mapping when i change boost and THATS i dont understand if i go on a dyno to map ..say 30psi than its ok for 30psi .

When i change boost to say 22 psi how knows the PC that i changed to 22psi without a mapping for 22psi ?

First thing, are you really going to run 30 PSI as this will need race fuel. For the road? Come on, you will have to have deep pockets.

Second thing the higher you set the boost then don't use it, IE only run 15 PSI on the Road then you will end up with a map that is only using the lower 50% which will have the Knock on effect of being very coarse in % change. IE (not good fuelling match).

When I fit any PC I set it to the max boost that WILL be used anymore and you are wasting map writing time as you won't use it.

If you are going out to get big HP figures as a goal for yourself (pub Chat) then Race fuel and 30 PSI is fine.
But if most of your riding is on Pump Piss I would run Two Maps.

1 for you dyno shoot outs for big numbers and one set with a max of 15 PSI so you have a good spread of variations across the map giving a better fuelling curve and therfore better ridability.

I would have thought you will know you are going to a dyno so can load the big psi map in seconds. Then pop the 15 psi one back in when you have finished kicking arse

[Würstchens-Turbo 810]

THX Tack

in the moment i run with my GT1548 22psi with pump fuel 102 octan Aral it is ok, no knocking , no detonation.

With he GT2056 i wil run 20 to 22psi or less also its better to set 100% to 22psi ? or higher ?

[tack1000]

So what HP are you getting with 22 psi on the GT15

If you are running 22 psi I would set the 100% to 21 psi, so when you are at 22 psi it will be defiantly in the 100% column of the map and makes adjusting the right number easier. If you are just under 100% then the pc uses a percentage of both the 80 and 100% column. This makes it harder to set the thing up.