PC settings, and battery problems.

[Lorcan]

We might need our resident Dynojet employee to help with this one, but in the meantime here is my input.

A major factor here is "interpolation". This means that every cell has an impact on the cells around it, and it's why you shouldn't have big jumps between cells (like you have +15 going to -20). This makes the PC average out the numbers between the values and you don't really get the values you want. Try to keep the numbers smooth progressions in either dimension.

The other thing I would try is setting the low "throttle" position to atmospheric with the engine OFF i.e. no vacuum. Then zero the first column and start again with idle mapping. That's how mine was set-up and means you should be back to the ECU settings for vacuum, and as your injectors aren't much bigger than stock should give you an easier time of it. You should be able to get it to idle and pull away without much in the first column.

[ducati]

Tack, I'm not using the TPS as a signal to the PC, I AM using the boost sensor to give the PC info.
I have set the PC 0%throttle idle setting at atmospheric, and then set the upper section with an airpressure gauge in line with my compressor/regulator to 32psi as 100% throttle. All is NORMAL in that respect!!
I will take another look at the numbers, and reset them to be sure nothing strange has happened there.
Lorc, the extreme shifts between cells was setup by the dyno man. Initially the numbers he set were even more extreme, and I have evened them out a lot, believe it or not!
I know you do not believe in moving the fuel pressure around, but my hard starting problem got better when I moved from 36 to 42psi, and took 5 out of all the cells. It seems my injectors dont like the lower pressure settings, and I can remember someone else on this site saying something similar, maybe it was Death INC ? who mentioned it. I have installed a new Walbro pump, and have a heavy duty alternator installed too, so hopefully they can keep up with the pressure increase.
I will redo the idle column,[engine off ]and bang yet another new fuel filter in, maybe the newish one that is in there already is a bit clogged, or a dud maybe, as it is the one thing that affects idle the most on my bike, prior to the PC fitment. It really has to be something daft like that.......I thought I had the crap/rust in the tank problem fixed when I replaced the tank!
It seems the further I go down the modified road the deeper the potholes get!!
Thanks for your input, it is highly appreciated.

[Lorcan]

Ok, let us know how it goes

[tack1000]

Tack, I'm not using the TPS as a signal to the PC, I AM using the boost sensor to give the PC info.

Cool Just checking.

You say you have set 32 psi as the max on the PC, but what pressure will you be running on the road, with pump fuel or something a bit special.

[ducati]

I am using around 16 psi on the road, with premium unleaded 98/100 octane depending on the servo that is closest when I run out.........
It is a bit silly mapping to 32 psi as the PC will only use half it's scale, but that is what the original resistors in the circuit M6ntal posted gave us. I am considering removing all that and just pairing off the boost sensor as I can then use 100% of the scale, before the factory cutout stops play.
I went for a ride today, with the result being the same damned huge flat spot, so new coils is not the answer.
My map goes to -30 or so at around 4k/ 0% throttle, and that is where I have to rev it in order to get off the line, so this is suggesting there is too much fuel down low
I have started to change the lower/vacuum scale to a minimum -25, adjusting the TPS to get a better idle............BUT the bloody battery is fubared from so many drains, and I can't get the job done completely till it is at least charged enough to start :evil:

[tack1000]

Hi

OK silly idea time, if your battery is Donald Ducked then you may find the injectors are sluggish and you have to crank the duty cycle way up to compensate and then when the charging/battery is high enough it runs rich a hell and causes issues. Get a good battery on it and start again. I think you are spot on with the view that if you are only using 16 psi of boost why set the max to 32, it just makes it all crunched up at the lower end and has the tendency to flick between 0 and 2 loosing another column thus not allowing for a fine and smooth change.

What spec is the engine, IE pistons size, cam types that sort of thing.

[ducati]

Yeah Tack, I think you maybe right about the battery. I just had another mini session, and managed to get an idle with a map that has minus 32 at idle,[thanks for the tip Kawasakiman542] and the tps adjusted over one side. It was working well, then just stalled. When I tried to restart there was not enough battery to kick it over, and I had just recharged it. It is a gellcell about 4 years old, maybe that's all they are good for before they won't hold charge.
There is nothing wrong with my fuel filter, and once the TPS is in the right position, it idles smoothly enough.
The engine was rebuilt with 810 wisecos, stock cams and valves, an uprated HT12 [mazda Rx7 12a compressor wheel with stock exhaust turbine],single 13/4"exhaust into hot dog muffler[should be a bit bigger] 392? walbro fuel pump, 350cc injectors,compressor bypass valve off the back of the surge tank.
Nothin special, but it should rock far better than it is.
I will remove the resistor bridge soon, and remap.... again!, once I buy another [lead acid] battery.

[kawasakiman542]

Did you say it has a flat spot at about 4000 rpm's, or it cuts out? It brings back memories of spring of this year, I changed every component, and it turned out to be a loose plug wire, not fitted all the way into the coil. What type of plug wire are you using? This may be way off track, but I thought I should mention it any way. If the connections are not solid they break down under load.

[Lorcan]

It's critical that all EFI systems have a good healthy battery.

[ducati]

Well, I put a new battery in, and all the problems seem to have gone...great call Tack!! Thanks heaps. I feel a bit not catching that one, but I'm glad to have my bike back
I have a map with -32 at idle, and it will start and run smoothly. Haven't gone for a ride yet, but it sounds like it wants to run, so prior to changing the resistors, or removing them altogether, I'll just [hopefully] enjoy a few troublefree rides.
There is still the issue of battery drain to deal with. I am now leaning towards a simple switch installed on the active cable coming from the battery. Once isolated from power, the injectors should only drain the voltage from the internal capacitors in the PC to earth, instead of sucking the life out of the battery. Any thoughts on this??
Kawasakiman, I have just installed 2.2ohm dyna coils, and leads, so there should be no problems in the spark department.

[Würstchens-Turbo 810]

If i want to measure AND datalogging the Duty Cycle with my Innovate SSI-4 Box which wire from the injectors i must take ?
The yellow or the other one ?

THX
Horst