Too rich on the Dyno

[Rot_power]

thank you very much. now I understand it much better.

I will try that

Thank you for your continued help

[vr1203]

any updates?

[Rot_power]

Hello
I will provide an update next weekend
I will have the bike on the dyno again on Friday.
But I think the fault has been found, I think my wastegate arm has been bent so that it only made 0.65 bar at full power. have now had it fixed and when I'm out riding now my new pressure clock says 1-1.05 bar and the bike pulls much better, so I'm excited to see what power it has now.
And am sure that my mixture ratio is much better now, since it makes more boost pressure

[vr1203]

Can you post photos of the bent and straightened arm?

[Rot_power]

you can't see it, it's very little.
the only way you can see if it's wrong is to do a pressure test like the one I have way up earlier in the thread.
mine started to open already at 0.5 bar and was "full" open at 0.65 bar.
after I have bent the bracket to the wastegate a little, it now only starts to open at 0.85 and fully open at about 1.0 bar.
the distance between the wastegate and the turbocharger needs to be made shorter to raise the pressure and you can do it by hand

[Charlie @ Evergreen]

That is good news finding the issue. Waste Gate pre load is one of the big issues find on these when we rebuild them. Many are not pre loaded at all and some are even un loaded ie the flapper door is cracked open a touch! Some have come in from shipping with barely any packing and the bracket is obviously bent and we straighten them and set the pre load. Usually you want approximately 2.5 mm / .098 pre load for proper pre load. As you found out if the bracket got bent the power was way down and engine ran rich.
Hope your dyne brings you the results you were wanting.

[Rot_power]

Then came the day when I got on the dyno again.

It went almost as expected, had probably hoped for more HP but due to too much fuel at the end I think that is what I have to expect.

135hp at 9600rpm
110nm at 6300rpm.
However, it is somewhat better than last time, when it only made 105hp
https://ibb.co/tBmqTSD

But what do you say to my AFR? still think it is too low. and can't understand why it dips so much at 6500rpm.
Too much petrol at the end and at the start.
How can that be? tps? too much petrol pressure (set to 40 psi at 1400rmp)

Hope you can help me a little

[Charlie @ Evergreen]

30HP change is much better. Originally you mentioned wanted 135HP be nice but sounds like your wanting more. Yes your AF Ratio is rich.
Assuming at this point you can not change FP or TPS settings at dyno? Likely you would have done that and mentioned it.

Being rich you will need to drop FP. 40-41 is starting point and that is with stock injectors cleaned flowed. Didn't see what injectors your running? Are they 300cc upgrades? If so you will have to drop the FP and reset TPS. Each time change FP reset your TPS.
2 lb FP change each time so try 38 lbs FP reset TPS. Setting TPS is sensitive and it may be your rich on TPS setting. Power will come up when you get into that 11.8 to 12.0 AF range.

Likely be in the mid 140s HP range at that point.

[Rot_power]

I drive with the original injectors ultrasonically cleaned and in perfect condition.
When you mention reset tps, it will say 1400rpm turn it until the rpm goes up 2-300rpm and then lock screws again.

I haven't put FP on the plan yet, I wanted to, I just didn't have enough time this Friday.

Have noticed that if it is at 40 psi at idle and you just give it a little bit of gas, it quickly rises to 43-44 psi, is this normal?

When it is too shaped at the beginning and at the end, it is so normal that it is the FP that is incorrectly set. shouldn't it break all the way up mean rpm it will get too much?

Would it be an idea with a resistor at the brown wire instead?

[Charlie @ Evergreen]

I drive with the original injectors ultrasonically cleaned and in perfect condition.
When you mention reset tps, it will say 1400rpm turn it until the rpm goes up 2-300rpm and then lock screws again.
Whenever I make changes to FP I reset the TPS make sure it peaks with that FP.

I haven't put FP on the plan yet, I wanted to, I just didn't have enough time this Friday.
FP ??? FP stands for fuel pressure.

Have noticed that if it is at 40 psi at idle and you just give it a little bit of gas, it quickly rises to 43-44 psi, is this normal?
The FP will rise as you rev engine under load. 1:1 ratio. If you develop 5 pounds of boost your fuel pressure will rise 5 lbs of pressure. ie if your static is 40 lbs FP then your fuel pressure at 5 lbs boost will be 45 lbs FP.


When it is too shaped at the beginning and at the end, it is so normal that it is the FP that is incorrectly set. shouldn't it break all the way up mean rpm it will get too much?
Not sure what you mean by shaped but your FP will rise with your boost and move up and down if you let off gas or shift then back into boost. Fuel pressure reacts instantly to the boost pressure.

Would it be an idea with a resistor at the brown wire instead?

You would be the first in 9 years of billet turbos that I know of to try resistor. But your issue is your rich thru the whole RPM range.

[georgew4714]

Technically not true Charlie . I was probably one of your first 5 or so billets built for these bikes and I've run an adjustable resistor the whole time .

[Charlie @ Evergreen]

Thanks G. Stand corrected. Just never had to use one with the billet upgrade.
Hopefully you can help with some advise on setting up the resistor