over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby dazbo » Fri May 03, 2019 2:00 am

so the myth?? that synthetic oils cause problems for our ancient engines is debubunked by what exactly.
your 15000 rpm engine isnt a 1985 kawasaki is it?? :popcorn :popcorn
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby 1sam1 » Fri May 03, 2019 5:26 pm

anyway.

if you have oilpressure and the bike dont brake down.

why no use syntetic oil. ok clutch problem. but if you solve that and maybe use 20-50w oil.

but i have newer try that .

my bike have run with syntetic oil 11 years.

but if you have use mineral oil and just change to syntetic there can bli problems if you engine is not clean inside.

sysntetic oil can loosen old inburnd oil residues,and then glog oil channels.
its gods country,dont drive like hell throught it!
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Chris G » Fri May 03, 2019 6:42 pm

On a fully rebuilt engine..... Castrol 4T power1, no issues so far, fully synthetic.
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Würstchens-Turbo 810 » Sat May 04, 2019 6:58 pm

I use mineralic Repsol Moto Rider 15W50 oil
springs of Ho... CX500 Turbo with washers
about 200 (195) PS no slip
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby gpzrfan » Fri May 10, 2019 10:44 am

I just came across this link on another forum (Z650) that may be of interest - not saying it will solve anything :rofl:

www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/news-and- ... 5eg0JMPQhg
2005 ZX636R
1980 - modified Z650
1985 - modified GPZ600R / 400R
1986 - GPZ600R absolutely standard
1989 - GPZ900R A6 - A7 running gear
1984 GPZ750 Turbo - modified ZXR750 running gear
1984 GPZ750 Turbo - Paxo special
An analog man in a digital world
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Turboblew2 » Sun May 12, 2019 12:10 am

dazbo wrote:so the myth?? that synthetic oils cause problems for our ancient engines is debubunked by what exactly.
your 15000 rpm engine isnt a 1985 kawasaki is it?? :popcorn :popcorn


can you prove beyond a doubt that oil/air cooled engines should only run conventional??? :hijack
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby dazbo » Sun May 12, 2019 7:30 am

Obviously not, i seem to have mislaid my testing laboratory and budget.
i can however say that last time i used synthetic oil in a Gpz750 turbo engine, and it was 20 years ago, the clutch started to slip within 5 miles and heavier springs did not sort it out.An oil flush and replacement with non synthetic oil from the same manufacturer sorted the slip.
The burden of proof in debunking the "myth" which developed out of multiple user experiences like mine is on you my friend, i am not the one who stated it is false using anecdotal evidence from a totally different engine.
Until that time i am happy to use mineral oil to the specs that Kawasaki quoted in the manual. :thumbup
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Turboblew2 » Sun May 12, 2019 9:34 am

and there is why "myths" get passed around... micro sample sizes.
:thumbup
Go ahead and show us the "HT10b" rebuild manual issued by KHI. :roll: Or is there a blanket statement to "See your Authorized Kawasaki Dealer" on technical specialties so as to discourage shadetree or home tinkering??
Same Authorized dealers that were using HT10bs as door stops and giving them away.
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Betterthanfabio » Sun May 12, 2019 10:29 am

I think the best answer might be Why use synthetic when mineral oil is perfectly fine and causes no known problems. If it's not broke don't fix it IMHO :rock
You should try to know everything about something & something about everything.
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Turboblew2 » Sun May 12, 2019 5:02 pm

Betterthanfabio wrote:I think the best answer might be Why use synthetic when mineral oil is perfectly fine and causes no known problems. If it's not broke don't fix it IMHO :rock


Id ask why not?? Better than that... just use an oil analysis service so you can go by cold hard numbers & chemical content. Otherwise be sure to use KHI branded oil from an "authorized" dealer... to keep your warranty intact...lol :rofl:
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby zedturbo » Sun May 12, 2019 5:21 pm

My turbo slipped the clutch with every type of oil I used with hard springs, untill I bought a lockup clutch from Greece from one of the members here.
Problem was solved instantly! :beer
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Mang » Sun May 12, 2019 5:53 pm

I have only ever used non- synthetic oil - it's cheap as shit and on the race bike I change it every time we use the bike as I drain it and look at the oil for sparkly bits. The standard clutch with stiffer springs broke free when we hit about 135bhp - we bought a lock up clutch - we are at 190bhp and it holds firm. You could waste your time using what ever oil you think will make a standard clutch work at 200bhp but unless you use JB weld in your standard clutch it will slip. Buy a lock up clutch and then put in what ever oil you think will be best.

nuff said
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby 1sam1 » Thu May 16, 2019 7:27 pm

read somthing about red clutch springs.. what is that? and where is the info?

where do you find lock up clutch ?
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Gene » Tue Mar 10, 2020 7:28 am

Hey...
I was going to ask....
but I read and found this discussion.....

My clutch blows away...
I was curious at what hp#s.
So it's making 140+ ?

My 90 horse 750VFR rips 1st gear
like GPZ does from 2nd

Stupid over-rich programming at idle and cruise??? YES!!!
, but she comes on strong, smoking the tire with a 2nd gear kick in the ass.
3rd gear starts to haze, but the clutch fades quick....

Straight pipe.
UNI filter on the snout.
Better flowing pre-pipe

I wired in a 2nd fuel pump circuit...though
that's controlled by an adjustable vacuum switch connected to all 4 vacuum ports.....
Control switch, ones for like what overdrive transmissions need, to activate a torque lock-up torque converter mode....

..so the fuel pump is 1/2 speed 1/2 pressure at idle and cruise....
OK?
the pump is powered from 2-pole position relay
and through the stop side filament .....of an 1157 tail light bulb.

So...Above idle and cruise, when the vacuum drops,
the pump goes to 100%
the injectors then are at full feed
and traction overcomes the clutch....

The adjustable vacuum-over-boost fuel pressure regulator.....
a whole nother deal.....

No wonder these bikes were a failure.
they're crude in tuning.
So the only thing is todo, is fool the system with bandaids.
and since the turbo is below the oil-line, they puke and drool....
Crap....
I thought my Gamma was bad for the environment.

140 horse is something to brag on, for the old gal....
thanks for the info.
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Re: over 200 hp engine.how you solve the clutch problem?

Postby Charlie @ Evergreen » Tue Mar 10, 2020 10:55 pm

Gene wrote:Hey...
I was going to ask....
but I read and found this discussion.....

My clutch blows away...
I was curious at what hp#s.
So it's making 140+ ?

*********Clutch slippage can start around 120hp I believe. Easy fix is heavy red springs. If you want the clutch lever soft and easy install the available hydraulic conversion Roger makes.

My 90 horse 750VFR rips 1st gear
like GPZ does from 2nd

Stupid over-rich programming at idle and cruise??? YES!!!
, but she comes on strong, smoking the tire with a 2nd gear kick in the ass.
3rd gear starts to haze, but the clutch fades quick....

******Why is your fueling over rich at idle and cruising? Stock turbo system and fuel injection??

Straight pipe.
UNI filter on the snout.
Better flowing pre-pipe

***** K&N Filter solves this R1080
*****Build a new 2 inch pipe is easy. Add a muff if too loud. or slasher style for performance.

I wired in a 2nd fuel pump circuit...though
that's controlled by an adjustable vacuum switch connected to all 4 vacuum ports.....
Control switch, ones for like what overdrive transmissions need, to activate a torque lock-up torque converter mode....


********What? Lost me here.

..so the fuel pump is 1/2 speed 1/2 pressure at idle and cruise....
OK?
the pump is powered from 2-pole position relay
and through the stop side filament .....of an 1157 tail light bulb.

***** Why did you have to do this?

So...Above idle and cruise, when the vacuum drops,
the pump goes to 100%
the injectors then are at full feed
and traction overcomes the clutch....

******* Do the clutch upgrade
******* Get a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator to control your fuel pressure
*******You don't want fuel injectors at 100% duty cycle it will kill your injectors & ECU, so if your upgraded with a LARGER TURBO, use 300cc injectors available plug and play. Set fuel pressure (1:1 rising rate adjustable regulator use a EVO on line fits pretty cleanly) at 41 lbs to start. Set your TPS with bike in Race Mode. It should idle perfectly and start right up. Burn clean and have fueling for RPM range.

The adjustable vacuum-over-boost fuel pressure regulator.....
********* use a 1:1 Adjustable rising rate regulator for boosted systems. Then you can tune easy,.

a whole nother deal.....

No wonder these bikes were a failure.
******* Don't agree.


they're crude in tuning.


*********Tuning was set up factory and worked fine. Gotta do right changes in this FI system it works like a charm. Yes mine does and many others do. I started mine yesterday for John Nye a long time turbo owner when he dropped by..sitting a month fired off in 3 seconds. Runs perfect every time.


So the only thing is todo, is fool the system with bandaids.

******** No bandaids just right upgrades. 1:1 FPR//300cc injectors//bigger turbo/boost pipe & BOV//exhaust and filter//do the oil pump & RV to protect the engine/turbo. Build the clutch basket you're set. Set tune and go ride.
and since the turbo is below the oil-line, they puke and drool.... this I agree the turbo was set to low in the design so only way to keep it dry is start it once every 10 days. Don't need to ride it. or Ride it.


Crap....
I thought my Gamma was bad for the environment.

140 horse is something to brag on, for the old gal....
thanks for the info.


*******Sorry to hear your having issues with your 750 but you can get it done.
All in all everyone here has shown many of us the way thru the years me included and find this bike easy to set up and tune. Biggest head ache is letting it sit and oiling issue can occur.
84' ZX750 Turbo 85'ZX750 Turbo
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