Bringing an E1 back from the dead

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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby LondonZ1 » Mon May 06, 2019 6:24 pm

With the greatest respect, you do just tap it in with a hammer as shown in the Kawasaki manual. When you tighten the nut on the end of the axle bolt, it squeezes together the two bearings onto the internal spacer, using the inner race. You are right that the inner race and outer race must be in alignment but that is achieved by making the length of the spacer exactly the same as the distance between surfaces inside the wheel that the outer race butts against.
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby LondonZ1 » Mon May 06, 2019 8:53 pm

I have almost finished the controls, instruments, switchgear and ignition. Still have to fit the gauge lamps and I may replace the piston inside the master cylinder; it's not returning properly. I thought I would post some pics of the H pipe and spider. Both were coated satin black by Camcoat. The finish is lovely although it's not a perfect match for the original. The H pipe was NOS, still with the factory finish, which was just a thin film of paint. No wonder they all corroded so quickly.
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby riturbo » Tue May 07, 2019 12:08 am

Wow coming along nicely . Great job . :thumbup
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby LondonZ1 » Sun May 19, 2019 6:08 pm

I collected the bodywork from Dream Machine on Friday and spent some of the weekend fitting it. I haven't used DM before but I am really impressed with the quality. They have got the decals (which they supplied) spot on and the paint is really deep and glossy. Having seen it all close up as I fitted it, I haven't found a single flaw. Judge for yourself.

Fitting the body work would be easy I thought. Wrong. The holes in the forks for the mudguard were blocked so I had to remove the front wheel yet again and carefully run an M8 tap down the holes. I had the same experience with the M5 threads in the grab rails, all of which had to be re-threaded. Not difficult but time consuming and not something you want to rush. There was also some loose rust etc in the tank which I got out with some shaking and a careful probe with a vacuum cleaner attached to some spare fuel hose. There's no loose rust now but the inside has a fine surface layer of dirt and dust. Any suggestions on a suitable chemical I can rinse the tank with?

I have a new wiring harness due from Japan in a few days so the next job is to run all the wiring, and sort out the rivnuts on the shroud. It's really satisfying seeing it all come together. You can see the Speed Shop Ito anti dive blanking plates in the last pic BTW.
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Last edited by LondonZ1 on Sat Jan 04, 2020 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby Betterthanfabio » Sun May 19, 2019 11:19 pm

LondonZ1 wrote:With the greatest respect, you do just tap it in with a hammer as shown in the Kawasaki manual. When you tighten the nut on the end of the axle bolt, it squeezes together the two bearings onto the internal spacer, using the inner race. You are right that the inner race and outer race must be in alignment but that is achieved by making the length of the spacer exactly the same as the distance between surfaces inside the wheel that the outer race butts against.


I agree but the manual doesn't explain the cIearance.I think I didn't explain it properly either. When the bearings are tapped in you should be able to easily turn the inners independant of each other, in other words if you turn one inner & the one on the other side turns then theres pressure on the balls from the outer races being to close to each other. If thats the case then it needs a tap to move one of the outers slightly to give the right clearance inside the race when it's tightened up.
You should try to know everything about something & something about everything.
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby gpzrfan » Fri Jan 17, 2020 5:10 pm

Whats the latest Pete ??
2005 ZX636R
1980 - modified Z650
1985 - modified GPZ600R / 400R
1986 - GPZ600R absolutely standard
1989 - GPZ900R A6 - A7 running gear
1984 GPZ750 Turbo - modified ZXR750 running gear
1984 GPZ750 Turbo - Paxo special
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby LondonZ1 » Fri Jan 17, 2020 11:34 pm

The latest is that I am waiting to get the engine back! Current estimate is late Feb which gives me March to finish the bike. Since the last post I have 1) fitted a modern Electrex RR14 Mosfet regulator/rectifier, 2) had the seat recovered with an original style cover, 3) had the stator rebuilt by West Country Windings and 4) started to remove the exhaust end caps so I can fit the stainless ones skilfully made by ChrisG and Tack. What an awful job! I had to cut the end caps to get them out and even then it needed lots of heat and localised violence. I will send the silencers and end caps off to Camcoat for ceramic coating. I have also worked out how to fit a modern turbosmart fuel pressure regulator neatly under the throttle bodies, pics to follow when the brackets arrive. The plan now is to do absolutely everything else I can so that the engine can go straight in and then the bike will be done.
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby gpzrfan » Sun Jan 19, 2020 5:36 pm

just as I thought !! sat on your arse watching the world go past :rofl:
2005 ZX636R
1980 - modified Z650
1985 - modified GPZ600R / 400R
1986 - GPZ600R absolutely standard
1989 - GPZ900R A6 - A7 running gear
1984 GPZ750 Turbo - modified ZXR750 running gear
1984 GPZ750 Turbo - Paxo special
An analog man in a digital world
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby LondonZ1 » Sat Feb 08, 2020 12:43 am

As well as watching the world go by, I've been trying to find a neat way to fit a modern turbosmart fuel pressure regulator. The supplied bracket is not easy to mount so I designed two brackets in 1.5mm stainless which I bolted to the underside of the throttle bodies. I then riveted the FPR bracket to the new stainless ones which makes for a neat and robust solution. Haven't finished sorting the hose routing yet but I think the outcome is reasonably neat.
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby gpzrfan » Mon Feb 10, 2020 3:08 pm

Neat and tidy
2005 ZX636R
1980 - modified Z650
1985 - modified GPZ600R / 400R
1986 - GPZ600R absolutely standard
1989 - GPZ900R A6 - A7 running gear
1984 GPZ750 Turbo - modified ZXR750 running gear
1984 GPZ750 Turbo - Paxo special
An analog man in a digital world
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby LondonZ1 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 6:21 pm

The exhausts that came with this bike were scrap but I had a pair of silencers from my first turbo in solid condition. I removed the original end caps and sent the silencers and new stainless end caps off to Camcoat. They offer a semi-gloss finish which is not quite the same as black chrome but is pretty close. They came back this week and I am really pleased with the finish. The ceramic coating is very thin so you can read all the original Kawasaki stampings but the corrosion protection will be much better quality. You can judge for yourself, the pictures are actually a good representation of the real-world appearance. There was a small split on one of the welded seems underneath which Camcoat very neatly re-welded. I have also used Camcoat for the spider, H-pipe and oil cooler (spare one for sale BTW!) and can thoroughly recommend them.
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby longfiredragon » Thu Mar 26, 2020 7:03 pm

Hey London, bike is looking really sharp, nice work. I had a question, do you have the front forks serviced yet? Reason I am asking is because those block off plates look basically like the ones Youngblood (I think it was Youngblood) made some years back. I had bought a set and tried to install them the way you have yours with no dice. They were designed to work with the stock anti dive mounted over the top of them. Never the less everything pretty much was tried, gaskets, sealant, sufficient dry time like 2 days and every time they leaked fork oil. They were just too thin and when the screws would be tightened it would warp them. We even tried using Loctite on the screws with gaskets and sealant, tighten just a little so as to not have them warp, and no luck. I ended up buying the block off plates from Fast From the Past. Fast from the Past use orings, and have a small chamber to allow the oil to still go back and forth when the shock is moving up and down, which of course it has to do.

The other option was to add 2 more holes on top and bottom of the plate to stop the warping.

Hopefully yours will work. :victory
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby LondonZ1 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:28 pm

Hi LFD, hope you’re keeping safe in this mad world. Yes, I had the forks rebuilt by Brook Suspension. Stanchions were re-chromed, sliders powder coated and they fitted blanking plates that I sourced from Japan. They are made by SSI and have a recess to allow fluid to pass. Brooks were so impressed they asked me to buy a second pair for a customer with a GPz1100. You can see them in the link below. Not cheap but beautifully made. SSI specialise in older Kawasaki’s and I really rate their stuff. I fitted their 750NA rear sets to my other turbo although I should add that I have had a few minor clearance issues.

https://japan.webike.net/products/23466660.html
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby youngblood » Fri Mar 27, 2020 3:50 pm

YB block off plates? I've never sold any as I recall just a donation to this site required. And there are two types 5mm for in-between the leg and AD, 10mm fitted on their own? my standard bike has had both with no leaks. and Z1 wow they are expensive. Maybe I should make some more ;)
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Re: Bringing an E1 back from the dead

Postby longfiredragon » Mon Mar 30, 2020 11:37 am

Guys, hope you and yours are doing well also. It is crazy out there right now. YB, didn't mean to imply that you were making anything off your plates. Had a tough time just remembering it was you I got them from.

Do remember it was my fault for trying to install them the way that I did when the ones I got were meant to be used with the ant-dive in place. Only mentioned it to London because the plates looked similar and didn't want him to have leakage issues.

London, those should be fine as it appears they were meant to be used by them selves and have orings. They are cheaper than the ones from Fast from the Past, theirs are around $100 US.
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