Installing heavy duty clutch springs, by Ryan

Reason for modifying clutch: Slipping due to weak springs even with stock engine w/o modifications.

Tools Required: 10mm socket w/ratchet, 5mm Allen wrench, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, end wrenches, inch lbs. torque wrench.

Parts required: Five quarts fresh oil, new oil filter. New heavy duty clutch springs (EBC springs are approx 10% stronger, Kibblewhite are approx 30% stronger).

Begin by removing lower fairing. Drain oil & remove oil filter. Loosen clutch cable lock ring and remove cable from lever. On engine end of cable, loosen lock nuts and remove cable from lever. Remove Allen bolts around clutch cover, note where two wire tabs are located and where hose bracket mounts. Remove clutch cover without damaging gasket. Loosen each clutch spring bolt a little at a time to evenly release the clamping force on the clutch plates, this can prevent warping the steels. Once springs are all removed, remove the clutch pressure plate. A friction should be the first & last. Remove all the steels & friction discs. Examine these closely to be certain they are factory Kawasaki parts.

A picture bellow shows a Barnett clutch, the frictions are a dark red and will be thinner then stock part. The Barnett steels are a bronze colour and will possibly be worn as the picture should indicate. There may be different colour Barnett clutches so be aware of these units. YOU MUST NOT USE BARNETT CLUTCH PLATES IN THIS BIKE! If your engine has a Barnett clutch, remove it and dispose of it (not on ebay!). Use only genuine Kawasaki plates in your 750 turbo.

Drop the sump and clean the oil pump pickup screen of debris. If the clutch has been slipping there's a good chance that fibres from it have accumulated here. These will starve the engine and turbo of oil if not kept clear. Barnett fibre plates are known to shed fibres at a high rate, blocking the pickup. If you drag race you should also inspect the pickup frequently.

A good practice is to clean & sandblast the steels to rough them up. If they are "blued" from severe slipping, this could save them. Check frictions & steels for flatness on a piece of glass if no granite surface table is available. Measure the thickness of the frictions if severe use is evident. New thickness is .120" (3.05mm), replace if worn below .1075 (2.73mm).

Going back together, first make sure to oil clutch frictions & steels with engine oil, do not assemble clutch dry. Start with a friction first. Friction, steel, friction etc. you should end up with a friction on the outside, rotated one tang as per the manual. Install the pressure plate. Install the heavy duty springs and tighten evenly in a opposite pattern as tightening automobile lug nuts. Torque the bolts to 19 inch lbs. Install engine clutch cover, be sure to engage gear rack so lever is in correct position. Install bolts with wire tabs & hose bracket. Torque cover bolts to 19 inch lbs. Install clutch cable & adjust. Make sure oil drain screw is installed and tight & new oil filter is installed. Fill engine with oil. Check for oil leaks around cover.

One note to remember: When choosing heavy duty clutch springs. Some common sense is required. Stiffer springs will translate to more difficult clutch lever pull. The really strong springs can be uncomfortable for road use, depending on the strength of your hand. If you need springs stronger than your hand can comfortably cope with you should consider purchasing a lock-up clutch.