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The Route to
Power by Lorcan
Many 750 turbo
owners, along with owners of pretty much any other bike, find
themselves thinking "a bit more power would be nice". This guide
is intended to give a snapshot view of the modifications necessary
to increase your bike's power for street and race use. More
details and advice are available in the
forum. You can also
search the forum for more help. The parts lists for each stage are in
addition to the earlier stages. There are, of course, many
ways to skin a cat and the lists shown are by no means the only
way to achieve these power levels, but they are the most popular
methods followed by forum members. All power figures quoted are at
the rear wheel. See the
New Parts section of the forum
for ideas on where to buy parts.
But first, a health
warning.
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HEALTH WARNING
The
following is ONLY A GUIDE. You, and only you, are
responsible for the consequences of modifying your bike,
some of which can be serious. If in doubt, consult a
professional. All modifications should be notified to your
insurance company. |
Ok, let's get started.
I think it almost goes without saying that you should start with a
healthy engine. If it's blowing smoke, has low compression or
rattles consult the forum for advice before going any further.
Stage 1 - Race mode, 100-115hp
The stock bike is restricted
to around 95hp (at the wheel) by
Kawasaki. We know this because there is a document from Kawasaki
showing how to de-restrict it. Kawasaki call this de-restriction
race mode.
Click here for how to enable race mode.
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Stage 1 parts list |
Essential
K&N air filter #R-1080,
Silencer removal/replacement/modification for reduced back
pressure.
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Desirable
Resistors as per the
race
mode document, boost gauge.
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Stage 2 - Race mode with boost
control, 100-135hp
The next step is to start turning the boost up.
You need to be careful at this point as it is possible you will
encounter detonation if you go too far. Detonation is an
uncontrolled burn in the cylinders and MUST be avoided at all
costs, or you will have a molten lump of scrap for an engine. You
can hear detonation - roll the bike on in 2nd or 3rd gear, wide
open throttle, it sounds like a rattle "the death rattle". Also
check the plugs to see if they have come loose and for specks of
metal on the electrodes - both are signs of detonation. If you
suspect detonation is occurring, turn the boost down. Stock boost
is 7-10psi, 12psi gives a noticeable increase in power with 15psi
being the limit we would recommend on pump fuel. 15psi should get
you to around 135hp, approx 40% more power than stock. This is the
limit of the stock turbocharger. A dyno run is recommended to
check the fuelling throughout the rpm range. Make adjustments to
the TPS/resistors as per the
race mode document.
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Stage 2
parts list |
Essential
Boost
controller, boost gauge.
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Desirable
Dyno run to
check fuelling. Dump valve.
Oil pan mod.
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Stage 3 - Upgrade turbocharger,
engine and fuel system, 150-200hp
This is where it gets serious!
While not essential, forged pistons are highly desirable, the
most popular and proven kit by a long way being the Wiseco
810cc. There are two schools of thought regarding fuel control.
The Old School method favoured by HPU is to use an adjustable
fuel pressure regulator combined with TPS (Throttle Position
Sensor) adjustments to control fuelling throughout the boost
range. The New School method pioneered by 750turbo.com is to use
a Powercommander 3 to map the fuelling at stock fuel pressure
like a modern bike. Both methods need setting up on a dyno for
performance and reliability.
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Stage 3
parts list |
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Essential
Upgrade
turbocharger (Garrett GT20, T25, T28, HPU Stage2),
Upgrade fuel injectors (RC310cc, HPU 880). Upgrade fuel
pump (Walbro GSL393 or 392 for HPU method). Adjustable
fuel pressure regulator (SARD) OR Dynojet
Powercommander 3. Heavy duty clutch springs. Dyno
runs for fuel setup. Race fuel for high boost operation.
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Desirable
Wiseco
810cc piston kit P809B, Copper head gasket (o-ringed),
Wideband air/fuel sensor kit. Dyno runs to map fuelling.
Intercooler. Lockup clutch. 530 chain conversion.
GPz1100 throttle bodies. Dyna grey ignition coils.
Ported spider pipe or race headers.
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Stage 4 - Further upgrades to
turbocharger, engine and fuel system, 200-250hp
A lockup clutch is essential at
this point as the stock clutch will slip, even with heavy
springs. This combination is capable of over 190mph and low 9
second quarter miles (8 seconds with suitable chassis mods).
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Stage 4
parts list |
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Essential
Wiseco
810cc piston kit P809B or HPU 880cc kit, intercooler,
Upgrade fuel injectors (RC370cc or 410cc). Lockup
clutch. Upgrade turbo (GT22, GT25, GT28, HPU Stage 5).
GPz1100 throttle bodies. Dyna coils. Ported spider pipe
or race headers.
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Desirable
Upgrade
wheels, forks, swingarm, brakes and tyres highly
recommended! 1mm oversize exhaust valves, increased lift
(but not duration) camshafts. External wastegate.
Datalogger.
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