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Build your own (cheapola!) boost gauge, by John Altom

First, buy one of the cheap ($12US) tire gauges with the large dial and the attached hose.  DO NOT get one of the low pressure gauges that only reads up to 15lbs!  Trust me, you will blow it up!  Next, buy a 6-7ft length of vacuum tubing at your local auto parts store.  Also buy a T-fitting to match the tubing size (3/16ths)  Sorry guys.  I don't know metric.    If you can find some of the small clamps for vacuum tubing, consider yourself lucky!  I used zip ties for my project.  If the gauge is a Victor brand, you will have fun removing the hose.  Use Vice-grips to crush the metal piece that the hose goes into.  NOT the piece that goes into the gauge!  You can pull the hose out of this piece with pliers.  You will want this piece completely removed so that you have the gauge with the fitting sticking out ready for a hose to be attached.  At this stage, you have to make a decision.  Do you want to have your gauge show the boost and then return to zero or do you want it to hold the reading until you release it?  I personally prefer to have it hold because it is very hard to look down while you are on a high boost run!  After the run, I just look down and then release it after I see the reading.  If you don't want this feature, unscrew the metal piece that the hose was attached to from the gauge very carefully.  There are small parts inside you can lose easily.  There is a spring and a white piece of plastic and a black piece of rubber.  Take these out and save them in case you change your mind later.  The rubber goes against the inlet then the plastic then the spring with the small end against the plastic piece.  Without these the gauge will rise then fall back just like a regular gauge.  You will have to remove your seat, tank and battery.  I would recommend waiting until you are about out of fuel to make it easier to handle the tank.  Once you have removed these items, locate the factory boost sensor tubing.  It is on the back of the surge tank and it looks just like vacuum tubing.  While you are in there, it would be a good time to check the sensor mounting bushings.  They are the rubber mounts that hold the sensors to the back of the surge tank.  If they are broken or dry-rotted, call you-know-who and order new ones.  Separate the hoses and install the T-fitting so that one end and the middle are reconnecting the factory hoses and the other end is open.  Attach the vacuum tubing you bought to the open end.  Clamp or Zip tie the hoses to the fitting.  If your bushings are ok, run a zip tie around them after you put the sensors back to insure they don't come off.  Route your tubing along the underside of the backbone of the frame and use zip ties along the way to keep it from coming loose.  Run it up and around the back side of the instrument cluster to the left side of the gauges.  Before you cut off any excess tubing, make sure you have enough at full left and right steering lock!  Attach the hose to the connector on the "boost gauge" and clamp or zip tie it in place.  I used zip ties to hold the gauge between the clip-on clamp and clutch but, if you have access to a better system, use that.  Another thing I did was to spray it with "Ignition Sealer" spray.  You should be able to find it at any auto parts store.  Make sure you put something such as a round piece of tape over the lens of the gauge this will keep the spray from covering the lens and making it difficult to read but, don't cover the seam between the lens and rim with tape.  This will help keep out moisture.  If it does get wet, don't worry, most of the parts inside are brass.  The lens will fog but, will dry out in the sun quickly.  There you have it.  The total cost is around $15US.  It's not perfect, but, it gives you an idea of your boost for next to nothing and when you decide to buy a real gauge, you already have the tubing ready to hook up!

  

Here is Mark's (Beast 750) installation of the gauge:

marksgauge.jpg (52247 bytes)    marksgauge2.jpg (53686 bytes)

 

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